On complicated panels, it often helps to break the job into smaller pieces. This almost always makes the shaping much easier.
Q. I am trying to form rear fender tips on my 1950 Willys Jeepster, and 18-gauge steel is about to beat me. Nothing seems to work for forming the 2-inch-diameter rolled inner and outer edges. I have a Chinese deep throat shrinker/stretcher that is rated for 18-gauge steel, but it doesn’t seem to work on this panel. I can shrink or stretch small pieces of 18-gauge like, 3/4×3/4-inch angle, but it will not shrink the edges of the fender to create the radius I need. I have tried to tuck shrink this area, but I find 18-gauge steel almost impossible to tuck.
I think one problem is that I’m trying to form the fender tips as a single piece of metal. The patch will replace about 10 to 12 inches on the bottom of each rear fender, both front and back. The outer edge of the fender is rounded to about a 1-1/2- to 2-inch radius, then folded to the inside at 90 degrees.
It may be hard to see in the picture, but the part has a slight radius top to bottom. It’s very low-crown in the center, but then starts to curve more noticeably to the inside and outside edges, and it has more curvature top to bottom. All of this is complicated by the 1-1/2- to 2-inch roll on the edge. Do you have any suggestions for making this part?
Nevin Miller
Dacula, GA
Via the Internet
A. I can see why you are having problems forming that part from 18-gauge steel. Those Chinese shrinkers will handle 18-gauge steel, but just barely, so you may not get good results unless you only shrink the metal about 1/2 or 3/4 inch from the edges.
I’ve modified your photo to show how I would do the job. Most of the patch would be done as a single piece, but the lower outer corner would be shaped separately. By breaking down the panel in this way, you will have much less work to do with the shrinker, and you should be able to work just the edges of the smaller panel, and successfully pull it into shape.
Let me know if this solves the problem for you, or if you have further questions.
Q. I am building an English Ford Prefect and I want to fill the roof insert with a sunroof from an Audi. My question is, should I remove the lip on my roof that used to support the wooden bows and butt weld the roof section into place, or leave the lip to preserve strength and trim the Audi roof to fit the opening?
Ken Demer
Via the Internet
A. It’s always best to butt-weld any joints on autobodies that are visible. If there are any parts of the joint that are stronger than the rest (as you would have if you retained the lip) it’s likely to show up as a distortion in the paint when the metal changes temperature, causing it to expand or contract.
Further, it’s much easier to work distortion out of a welded seam with a hammer and dolly if everything is the same thickness. Leaving the old lip in place would make straightening the distortion from welding MUCH more difficult.
If the roof does need support, you can put bows into place, using thin padding on each bow that fits snugly against the roof panel. I think it’s better if the bows are not permanently attached to the roof. This will allow the roof to grow away from the bows when it’s heated by the sun.
Velcro loop material is a good product to use for the padding, and it is available in different widths, and with a pressure-sensitive adhesive backing.
You can email your questions to Professor Hammer at covell@cruzio.com, or mail to: Covell Creative Metalworking, 106 Airport Blvd., Suite 105, Freedom CA 95019; you’ll receive a personal reply! Ron Covell has made many DVDs on metalworking, and he offers an ongoing series of workshops across the nation. Check them out online at covell.biz, or call for a current schedule of workshops and a free catalog of DVDs. Phone (800) 747-4631, or (831) 768-0705. You’ll also enjoy Ron’s YouTube channel; www.youtube.com/user/covellron.
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