This is the floor of a 1932 Ford roadster, modified to fit over a Model A rear crossmember. This is one good way to accommodate a quick-change rearend, while retaining the traditional transverse spring suspension.
Q.
I have an original 1932 Ford chassis, and I want to put a quick-change rearend under it. I see there are many different styles of quick-changes on the market, and I wonder what you would recommend? I’m running a big-block engine, so I want to be sure I’ll get something that’s strong enough.
It seems like the stock rear spring will hit the change gear housing, so how do I deal with that?
Brad Feldman
Via the Internet
A.
As you have seen, there are many manufacturers of quick-change rearends. As long as you select a “V-8”–style rearend, or something even stronger, you should be OK for street use. You’ll find several advertisers in this magazine who can supply what you’re looking for. It might be good to telephone a couple of them and discuss the options you have, to see what best fits your budget and other requirements.
One age-old trick for getting the spring clearance is to use a Model A rear spring and crossmember. You can buy aftermarket versions of these products that are relatively simple to adapt to your stock chassis. Because of the high arch of the Model A crossmember, you’ll have to modify the floor of your body. I’ve attached a picture of the floor of a 1932 Ford roadster I worked on years ago, showing one way to do this modification. I used a bead roller with Rounding-Over dies to curl the edges of the main pieces for the hump, and I also used beading dies to help strengthen the pieces and to give it a more finished look.
You could use coilover shocks instead of the traditional transverse leaf spring. Both are viable options; a lot of it depends on the era of the car you’re building, and the look you’re trying to achieve.
Q.
I thoroughly enjoyed every aspect of the SEMA show, but the highlight was watching your metalshaping demonstration and picking your brain. Although I’ve read lots of articles and books about metalworking, there’s nothing like watching an expert at work to ground all the concepts in reality.
At the show, we had a discussion about using medium density fiberboard (MDF) for hammerforms. The consensus was that MDF is good for making a small number of parts, but that it may chip or crack with heavy use. I have had some success soaking completed MDF hammerforms in ultra-thin cyanoacrylate (CA) cement to give them a tough skin. I think of this as similar to the “case hardening” process used on steel. I use ultra-thin CA cement from a specialty supplier. Don’t use the thick superglue from a hardware store; it is too viscous and doesn’t soak into the MDF.
I dribble on as much CA as the MDF will absorb, then I let it dry for 24 hours. After that, I sand it smooth, since the CA cement hardens every protruding fiber, leaving a very rough surface. This treatment doesn’t turn MDF into cast iron, but it certainly reduces chipping and cracking. I’ve also used this technique on wooden mallets, with good results. Perhaps you or your readers would like to experiment, and see if this technique is helpful.
Gill Paszek
Via the Internet
A.
Thanks for the compliments, and for passing along the information about strengthening MDF with Cyanoacrylate Adhesive. This does seem like a clever and relatively easy way strengthen MDF, which is great to work with, but rather soft in its natural condition.
You can email your questions to Professor Hammer – covell@cruzio.com – or mail a letter to Covell Creative Metalworking, 106 Airport Blvd., Suite 105, Freedom CA 95019. You will receive a personal reply. Ron Covell has made many videos on metalworking, and they can now be streamed or downloaded from his website. Check these out at covell.biz, along with his ongoing series of workshops held across the nation, or call for a current schedule of workshops and a free catalog of DVDs. Phone (800) 747-4631, or (831) 768-0705. Also, check out Ron’s YouTube channel – www.youtube.com/user/covellron.
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